Shedding seasons aside, it helps my dogs, and the amount of hair I live with, if I give them a thorough and regular brushing.
Brushing can feel like another chore, especially if a fur baby doesn’t like it, but it doesn’t have to be that way. If done well, brushing is a way to bond with my dogs and show them I care, and if done regularly, and with a caring touch, it can be a treat for them.
Some dogs require a regular brushing routine as part of their overall healthcare, and my Tipsy is one such dog; her hair can get these little tangled knots. But all dogs need to be brushed now and again. Brushing a dog distributes natural oils over the hair shafts which promotes a shiny coat, healthy skin and loosens dirt.
How often a dog needs to brushed depends on hair type, length, (whether a dog has gotten into something that needs to be removed), and a dogs skin condition. A vet can tell you the needed frequency according to the dog's hair. My vet also suggests washing my dog’s brushes with hot soapy water after every use because the dander left on brushes can promote bacteria and cause skin irritation on my dog’s skin.
I have struggled with Brushing Tipsy; we think she's part Papillion/part anybody's guess. All that cute fluffiness can become a hot mess if not kept in check.
My dog’s hair type, length, and how often she should be brushed, as well as any personal considerations while being brushed, is the secret to having a superb dog brushing experience for both of us.
If a dog isn’t happy about being brushed, remember a gentle touch, especially in sensitive areas, like under the legs and behind the ears. Pet the dog and speak gently before approaching with the brush. Let the dog smell the brush, and then gently begin gliding the brush down the chest. Take your time if your dog is frightened and give her petting breaks and tell her what a good baby she is being when she allows it with ease.
Be gentle. The more you brush him, the more comfortable he will become with the process. Keep the brush handy and glide it down his back when arriving home or giving him a walk or a treat. This helps change a negative attitude towards brushing.
Of course, I've discovered that I need the right brush. There are several different types of brushes for different types of hair.
If a dog doesn’t respond well to brushing, it could be the brush. The best way to brush a dogs can be found here: https://www.dummies.com/pets/dogs/how-to-brush-your-dog/ (don’t forget to check paws if they're fury).
Here are descriptions of the various types of brushes. Using the right brush could be the difference between a pleasurable or uncomfortable experience for a dog and groomer.
Bristle Brush: “Their clusters of tightly-packed natural bristles will remove loose hair and stimulate the skin” (Hartz). These brushes work best on smooth coated dogs with short hair like Jack Russel Terriers, Boston Terriers, and Grey Hounds.
Pin Brush: “Pin brushes look like brushes commonly used by people. They are usually oval-shaped, with a loosely-arranged set of flexible wires with pins on top. Pin brushes are the most commonly used type of brush, but often the least useful. They will pick up loose hair before it is shed onto your furniture, or finish and fluff a well-brushed coat, but provide little benefit to your pet” (Hartz). They’re usually used for finishing.
Rakes: If your dog has a thick coat like a Malamute, German Shepard, Chow-Chow, or Husky then you probably know how important it is to brush them during shedding season. Dogs with this type of fur develop dead undercoats that store dirt and debris. “Rakes are brushes designed to penetrate into a dog’s thick coat and remove tangles and dead undercoat near the dog’s skin. They are often shaped like a shaving razor and feature one or two rows of tightly-spaced pins. Like a razor, they are intended to be used with minimal pressure… When looking for a rake, be sure to find one with pins that roughly match your dog’s hair length” (Hartz).
Rubber Brush or Hound’s Glove: “…help bring dirt and loose hair to the surface” (dogtime.com). These come in many varieties. Rubber brushes can be round or oval disk as well as actual gloves. It’s the rows of small rubber nubs you’re after. Excellent for short-haired dogs like Labradors, boxers, or Chihuahuas.
Slicker Brushes: “Slicker brushes have fine, short wires close together on a flat surface. They are used on a medium-to-long-haired dogs to remove mats… used on many dog breads including Golden Retrievers, Yorkshire Terriers, Cocker Spaniels, and Saint Bernards” (Hartz).
Shedding blade: “Don’t be fooled by its name. This brush is really just a horseshoe-shaped comb with small, harmless teeth” (PetSmart). This brush works best for short-haired dogs. Most shedding blade designs allow you to open them into a long strip that can be gently raked along the dog’s back or down the chest.
Stripping Knife: “Stripping knives are used for dogs with wiry coats – like many terriers—and help to tidy up their appearance so as to achieve their breed “look”’ (Mikkipets.com). It’s best to ask a groomer to show you how to use a stripping knife or at least find a YouTube video.
Flea Comb?: I know folks whose fur baby has a little of this and some of that, as does their fur, and on the fluffy fine hair they like to use a flea comb to get all of the loose under coat. I have to say that I have had some luck using a flea comb on Tipsy (Papillon mix-we think) on both the fluffy hair on her legs and neck as well as the wiry terrier like hair on her back. Just go slow and gentle in case there is a small knot or tangle.
The Spruce-Pets has posted their pick for the best dog brushes for 2019. You can check it out here: https://www.thesprucepets.com/best-dog-brushes-4172609
And there are also de-matting tools such as the FURminator. Here is Petmasters buying guide: https://thepetsmaster.com/best-dog-dematting-tool/ However, if your dog has some serious mats, it’s probably best to consult a vet or groomer.
There are also detangling sprays. The Daily Puppy has some suggestions: https://dogcare.dailypuppy.com/dematting-spray-dogs-6432.html
Sometimes brushing won’t do it, and I have no choice but to cut mats, knots, dirt, gum, what-have-you from our dog’s fur. In the words of Carol McCarthy for PetMD, “When it appears your dog has had enough and there’s still a long way to go, it’s time to quit and either take him to a professional or give up on the brushing and de-tangling and simply clip the mat off.” Most agree that mats that can’t be gently undone with brushing should be dealt with by a professional. A note here.
According to Dogster, “Never bathe your dog if he has mats or tangled hair. Water acts as a sponge and only makes them tighter.” So, it’s best to brush before bathing.
Sometimes I have to have more than one brush to get the job done, and I may have to try a few different brushes out before we find the best ones, but even dogs with the shortest of hair benefit from regular brushing, not to mention the quality time and affection that can be incorporated.
References:
Mikki Pets - https://www.mikkipet.com/?p=3200
Pet MD - https://www.petmd.com/dog/grooming/dogs-hair-knots-how-get-them-untangled-and-under-control
PetSmart - https://www.petsmart.com/learning-center/dog-care/the-art-of-grooming-your-dog/A0134.html
and my vet, Dr. MacAvoy.
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